Mood:

Okay, so let's talk a little about Machu Picchu.
Don't get me wrong; I was quite excited to go there. But you have to understand that without ever having set foot at Machu Picchu I had, in some ways, been there, done that. For most people it is the only Peruvian archaeological site they know, so when I say I do archaeology in Peru, the typical response is, ¨Oh, like Machu Picchu!¨ I have heard Richard Burger recount the story of the site's rediscovery literally five or six times. I have written papers about the exhibit he put together at Yale and fielded endless questions regarding my views on the whole Peru-wants-its-artifacts-back debate. I answered a test question based on an architectural plan of the site. In Spanish class I did an oral presentation on it. Without having seen the place I could tell you where the Temple of the Sun was, where the emperor's quarters were, and why it was not really the ¨Lost City of the Incas.¨ I thought I knew Machu Picchu like the back of my hand.
I did. But I didn't know how it would feel to step off that bus and into a postcard. Postcards can't do this place justice. The sheer size of it impressed me. In pictures it is always dwarfed by Huayna Picchu, the sugarloaf mountain that always serves as the dramaic backdrop to the ruins themselves. Well, the ruins themselves are incredible. The quality of the stonework in the sacred and royal sectors, the mazelike quality of the place (I found rooms on my second day I totally missed the first time), the architectural genius of evoking a harmonious fusion of natural and artificial forms...woah.
What few people understand about Machu Picchu is how infinitely photographable it is. Nine out of ten photos will show the classic shot of the ruins framed by Huayna Picchu, and yeah, I took tons of pictures that looked just like that. But every time you move five feet, there are ten new gorgeous photographs to take. Every time the sun moves five degrees, you get the urge to take the same picture you just took all over again. I'm not kidding when I say I could take pictures of Machu Picchu all day long.
I'm glad I knew what I did about the site, and not just because I didn't have to shell out money for a guide. Rather than making me jaded, it made me really appreciate what I was seeing. I saw myself as Inca nobility, retreating from the cold Cuzco winters to this forest resort to rest and worship and party. Then I saw myself as Hiram Bingham stumbling across this place in 1911 with no idea what it had been or what it would become.
The train ride was long but beautiful, and climbing Huayna Picchu was worth the sweat, though not as fulfilling as the time I spent wandering the main site. The grazing llamas were a nice touch, too. I slept in too late to see the sunrise, but the quiet morning and late afternoon were worth the extra time and money for the overnight stay.
I'm sure I don't need to convince anyone to go to Machu Picchu. I believe it's quite famous. I just wanted to say how wrong I was for even imagining I'd be too jaded to fall in love with it all over again for the first time.
Posted by Trailhobbit
at 6:19 PM EDT
Updated: Monday, July 10, 2006 6:23 PM EDT